¿TE OCUPAS DEL AGUA DE TU MOTOR?

Seguramente que te ocupas de la bebida que tomas, de la comida que comes, del aire que respiras, de tu presión arterial; sabes que si algo de esto que menciono no está en las condiciones correctas, los resultados en tu salud nunca podrán ser los mejores. Pero sin embargo… ¿Haces lo mismo con el motor de tu auto? ¿Te ocupas del agua de refrigeración, de la calidad del combustible, de filtrar correctamente el aire, de la lubricación, de la presión del aceite?

Vamos a tomar, por ejemplo, el agua con que se refrigera el motor. Si no fuera el elemento adecuado, el motor tendrá problemas de temperatura. Sin embargo, hay quienes simplemente le colocan agua de la canilla, e incluso, quienes juntan el agua de lluvia para ese propósito, y quienes ni se preocupan por verificar el nivel adecuado.

Lo apropiado sería que utilizaras agua desmineralizada de la que se vende en botellas en las estaciones de servicio o los bidones de las casas de repuestos del automóvil. A ello deberías agregarle el anticongelante adecuado, en la cantidad que te señala el envase, diluyéndolo con el agua. Y no estaría de más, que le agregaras el aditivo anti-incrustante en la proporción adecuada. Todo esto tiene validez siempre y cuando, tu motor, por dentro (es decir, sus cámaras de agua) esté limpio.

Cuando el líquido refrigerante que usa tu motor pasa del tiempo recomendado (por ejemplo el de color verde dura unos 40.000 Km) su composición química se va alterando debido al tiempo transcurrido, el uso y la temperatura del motor, y comienza a formarse una fina capa de barro dentro de las cámaras de agua, tanto del block como las de la tapa de cilindros. Esta capa, a pesar de ser mínima, tiene el efecto de aislar la temperatura y no permitir que se evacúe libremente la temperatura de las superficies metálicas, lo que disminuye el efecto refrigerante del líquido.

A medida que pasa el tiempo, esta capa se hace mayor y el efecto de refrigeración, menor, lo que probablemente llegue al extremo de que en un día de calor, con el viento en contra, el electroventilador no sea efectivo porque el radiador también está sucio, y entonces el motor levante temperatura. ¿La solución? Pensarás que es hora de cambiar por completo el agua con refrigerante, o tal vez, con agregarle más refrigerante y aumentar la proporción, es suficiente.

Pero no, en ese caso, vencido el refrigerante, conviene que mandes hacer una limpieza del radiador, mangueras, y cámaras de agua del motor y tapa de cilindros. De esa forma, eliminado el barro interno, ahora puedes reemplazar el agua con el refrigerante, y quedarte tranquilo por otros 40.000 Km más. Si notas que las mangueras han perdido elasticidad, o sea, que las aprietas y en lugar de ceder, están duras, deberías cambiarlas para no encontrarte un buen día con una sorpresa muy desagradable. Recuerda una de las leyes de Murphy: «Si algo puede salir mal, saldrá mal» y el agregado de mi cosecha: «Y en el peor momento que sea posible»; ten por seguro que es así.

Hay quienes creen que el refrigerante verde cancela los minerales del agua común, y no es así; debes emplear agua desmineralizada. Un técnico que se ocupa de estos menesteres una vez me dijo: «Yo le agrego además, el anti-incrustante, por lo que no quedan minerales porque éste los atrapa». Error, dado que entonces, el aditivo anti-incrustante se cancelará debido a los minerales del agua y ya no tendrá poder efectivo para eliminar las moléculas de metal que desprenden tanto el block como la tapa de cilindros.

Una efectiva manera de saber si tu motor esta «sucio» por dentro, es retirar la tapa del radiador y pasar un dedo por el interior, lo más profundo que puedas (nunca retires la tapa en caliente o con el motor en marcha, si no quieres sufrir quemaduras); si el dedo sale manchado de marrón, es hora de mandar a hacer la consabida limpieza y cambiar el agua + anticongelante + anti-incrustante.

También, si retiras una de las mangueras del radiador, el interior de las mismas te hablará a las claras de la suciedad que tiene el conjunto, la que impedirá una buena refrigeración. Esto hará que funcione el electroventilador más seguido, ello consumirá más corriente del alternador y como éste toma energía del motor, originará mayor consumo de combustible; más allá entonces del riesgo de sobrecalentamiento cuando te vayas de vacaciones, estará presente el gasto adicional en combustible, que dañará proporcionalmente la pureza del aceite lubricante, que contribuye a mayor desgaste del motor.

El «truco» del agua de lluvia no dará resultado, porque el agua que cae del cielo, contrariamente a lo que se cree, no está libre de impurezas porque debe atravesar el aire en su caída, arrastrando el polvillo en suspensión que contiene el aire, y además, si cae del techo, con mayor razón, arrastrará suciedad del mismo. Por otra parte, durante las tormentas se producen desbalances de cargas eléctricas entre la nube y la tierra, y el agua de lluvia estará polarizada, lo que contribuye al ataque químico sobre las superficies metálicas.

Entonces, amigo, no hagas inventos raros y cumple con lo que corresponde, así como sabes que tu dieta descontrolada arruina tu organismo, así no cumplir con lo que se indica en el mantenimiento preventivo, arruina el motor de tu auto, aunque no lo veas de momento. Lo mismo con el cambio de aceite programado, no hagas trampa; la mayoría de las personas cree que el aceite solamente es para lubricar, pero no es así.

El aceite alimenta los botadores hidráulicos del motor y eso asegura una apertura y cierre apropiado de las válvulas (menor recalentamiento) y a la vez, baña y refrigera todos los órganos que no pueden ser enfriados por el agua, contribuyendo a minimizar el desgaste no sólo por lubricación, sino por refrigeración. Las piezas del motor, cuando no trabajan a la temperatura adecuada, sufren desgastes prematuros, porque para esa temperatura han sido diseñadas por sofisticados programas de computación. Si tu motor funciona frío, se desgasta; si lo hace demasiado caliente, también, porque los juegos calculados no se cumplen debido a los valores incorrectos de dilatación.

Por lo que, si quieres buena refrigeración, menos ruidos, menor desgaste y menor consumo de combustible, no te olvides de los cambios de aceite, con el aceite indicado por el fabricante. El motor de un auto de hoy se ha fabricado para que dure 5 años, y nosotros los argentinos, pretendemos, que como el Falcon, nos dure 30 años; entonces, si quieres mayor duración, tienes que tener mayor exigencia en cumplir estrictamente lo que te indica el manual del auto.

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14 comentarios sobre «¿TE OCUPAS DEL AGUA DE TU MOTOR?»

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